Saturday, November 3, 2012

Race to the Finish Line - Killing Pigs and Prepositions Along the Way



Bom dia!  Today is Saturday, November 3rd, and my time here in Mozambique is quickly ending.  Officially my COS, or close of service, will take place on November 30th, and I will no longer be a PCV, but will be an RPCV (Retired-PCV).  I find myself in a certain limbo, thinking about the future and trying to plan my post-PC life, but at the same time trying to close my service in a meaningful way.  When you get into the last few months of your Peace Corps service you begin to deal with questions and good-byes that you’re not necessarily prepared for.  Mozambican colleagues all ask you if you’re leaving for good, and whether you’ll come back to visit them; other PCVs ask you where you’ll be living when you get back to the states and what you’re planning on doing; and you ask yourself what this experience has meant for you and your future, and what you want to do with your life after November 30th.  I don’t have answers to any of these questions yet, so my general strategy has been to focus on my life here in Mozambique while I’m still here to enjoy it and hope that the rest will work itself out when the time comes…

Here in Mozambique the last three months have been a whirlwind of school responsibilities, trips, and Peace Corps functions, and have left me with very little free time, as you may have deduced from the lack of blog posts.  Only now, when things here at school are winding down to the end of the year, my Peace Corps colleagues are already COSing and many of my goodbyes have already been said, do I have the chance to sit down and reflect on these last few months of living in Mozambique. 

In the classroom with my 10th grade English students this trimester has been all about preparing them for the mandatory national exam that they will take next week.  In Mozambique, 7th, 10th, and 12th grades have national exams that students must pass in order to proceed to the next grade or graduate.  These national exams are notoriously difficult and force many students to repeat the same grades over and over.  Because of this, many of the 10th and 12th graders here in Mangunde and around the country are in their 20s, repeating 10th or 12th grade for the third or fourth year as they try to pass the national exam.  Try solving these English questions that appeared on the national exam last year and you’ll see why:

I didn’t hear you ------------- in.  You must have been very quiet.
a)      came          b) come           c) comes          d) coming

I must go now.  I promised ------------- late.
a)      I wouldn’t be          b) not been      c) not being                d) to not be

Now imagine that you don’t speak English.  How would you pass the test?  Well, here in Mozambique there are a few ways.  You can study your ass off, learn as much as you possibly can and hope that the questions aren’t all ridiculously difficult like the questions above.  Some students do this and they are the future of Mozambique.  Or, you can find a teacher who will be grading the tests and pay him to pass you.  You can pay him with money, chickens, phone credit, sex, and any number of other benefits that he will have few qualms in accepting, because teachers don’t get paid enough and their salaries never come in time.  That’s the sad reality of the education system in Mozambique.  The official end of the 2012 school year was last week and exams begin next week, so we’ll see how the process plays out this year. 

In 8th grade biology I finished my final exams and the school year last week.  This year we covered all of the systems of the human body and I ended the year talking about the Reproductive System, always a highlight.  Talking about penises, vaginas and masturbation with 13-15 year olds is pure entertainment.  They all rolled over laughing when I tried to pronounce the words for penis and vagina in the local language (if you’re ever in the area…mbolo and mbetche) and I had to stifle my laughter at some of the questions they asked: “So is this ‘egg’ in the woman like the type of egg we eat from a chicken?”  “What is a clitoris?”  “Can girls masturbate too?”  “How?”  “Is it possible for a woman to give birth to a tea cup?”  So I spent my last few weeks in the biology classroom explaining the basics of sex and reproduction, and, of course, masturbation (munhara in local language if you were wondering), to a group of giggly adolescents, a fitting end to my Peace Corps service. 

Outside of the classroom there has been plenty to do here in Mangunde over the course of the last few months.  In August the provincial Science Fair was held in Beira.  This was an event initiated many years ago by Peace Corps volunteers and is now run jointly every year by PCVs and the Ministry of Science of Mozambique.  It’s a wonderful event that invites the winners of smaller local fairs to Beira to present the science experiments that they have developed and compete for a chance to win cool prizes and, for one lucky winner, for a chance to participate in the National Science Fair.  From Mangunde, there were six students who won the opportunity to compete in the provincial fair in Beira.  Their experiments, by rule, were supposed to use the scientific method and be relevant to problems faced by their local communities. 

Before the Science Fair in August we had what I can now call our annual Mangunde Roast to celebrate my birthday here at site.  There were 10 or so PCVs who braved the journey out to rural Mangunde and were treated with an old-fashioned Brazilian-style churrasco.  As part of the festivities we made our way to the pens where they keep the pigs and were told to pick out the pig that we wanted to eat later that afternoon.  Then the guy asked me if we had brought a knife and a wheelbarrow and who was going to kill the pig.  I’m a softy; I freaked out when I tried to kill a chicken last year and it ended up with the chicken running around spurting blood out of a half-severed neck.  I didn’t want to repeat that on a larger scale this year with a pig.  Actually, none of us wanted to have the burden of killing the pig; we just wanted to eat some pork chops that night.  Luckily for us, Mozambicans tend to be chillingly unfazed about slaughtering animals, and actually often excited about the prospect.  Thus, we had a line of students who had followed us to the pen in anticipation of getting a poke at the poor swine we chose.  Picking which pig would meet its maker that day, however, was the hardest part. 
                                                             
Word to the wise, don’t google “are pigs intelligent animals” on your phone right before you’re about to kill one, because you’ll read that they’re the fourth most intelligent non-human animal in the world.  Apparently they are surprisingly self-aware and have been shown to understand when theire pen-mates are taken away to be killed.  In a completely unrelated google search, pigs have also been observed to have orgasms of up to 30 minutes.  None of this stimulates one’s appetite for bacon. 

We decided, thus, that the only fair way to choose between the four adolescent pig brothers in front of us was based on looks.  We put on the pig masks we had torn out of a book to make the pigs feel more comfortable around us, approached the pigs and made our selection.  We pointed to the ugliest pig with the most black spots and then covered our ears as my eager students jumped into the pen and cornered it. 

The shrieks of his brethren as he was being carried away were blood-curdling.  Did you know that the way you’re supposed to kill a pig in Mozambique is by stabbing it in the heart?  Yeah.  Stabbing it in the heart.  So my students stepped on its mouth so it wouldn’t scream, held him down and cradled him in their chest like a newborn baby and then with one slow motion sunk an eight inch knife into the pig’s chest.  It took 10 or 15 seconds of poking around while the pig was still alive until he hit the heart and finally killed the poor thing.  I couldn’t handle it.  I didn’t watch, just listened to the pig’s muffled shrieks. 

When I opened my eyes the pig was dead.  His eyes were glazed over and his legs were motionless.  It’s funny, though, how this happens.  Each step in the process of turning the once live pig into dinner the pig looks less and less like a pig to me and more and more like a pork chop, and despite my previous horror, the afternoon wore on and I found my appetite tapping me on the shoulder and asking me when dinner would be served.  The pig had to be shaved with boiling water, then eviscerated, decapitated, then cut into small edible pieces.  The students who had killed the pig expected some share of the meat, and were beyond excited when we offered the head, hooves, testicles and intestines to them.  We marinated the pig in a garlic tomato sauce and threw it on the charcoal grill.  As the scent of sizzling pork emanated through the yard and into our nostrils we all forgot about the atrocity that we had witnessed earlier that morning and got ready to feast.  I don’t know if it was because of the garlic and tomato marinade we put on it, or the charcoal fire that cooked it to perfection, or the fact that we had been there for every step of the preparation process, but that was the most delicious pork I had ever eaten.

After the pig roast and Science Fair, there were a still a few events left before the end of the trimester for me.  In the first week of September I worked with the local health center to carry out an HIV/AIDS and leadership training for 40 of the brightest 12th grade students here in Mangunde.  I can say with confidence that it was one of the most positive experiences throughout my Peace Corps service.  The head nurse at the health center, a wonderful man name José, co-coordinated the workshop with me and was instrumental in making it run as smoothly as it did.  It was only one day, but included sessions given by different nurses, religious leaders, professors, and myself about all kinds of important issues that adolescents in Mozambique face – HIV/AIDS and pregnancy prevention, self-esteem, gender issues, character development, religious perspectives and many more. 

As Peace Corps volunteers one of the biggest challenges we face is finding real local support for our projects in the form of committed and effective counterparts.  At this point in my service I’ve run so many HIV/AIDS workshops that I could practically run one by myself with my eyes closed.  What’s so difficult and so easily forgotten by many PCVs, however, is including local leaders in your projects as well.  I can organize all the students, funding, food, lodging, certificates and transport for an event and then get up and preach to them about the importance of self-esteem, condom use and gender equality until the cows come home, but it’s only going to go so far.  I’m a rich, foreign, white male.  How much is a poor 15 year old Mozambican girl really going to listen to my messages? 

Not all PCVs like to work with Mozambicans on their projects.  This isn’t because we don’t like them, or get along with them.  They’re our friends and neighbors, of course we do.  It’s because working with Mozambicans is often messy and unorganized.  We’re afraid of money being mishandled, people showing up late, and things not being taken care of until the last minute.  It’s much easier to just take care of everything yourself and not have to trust others with difficult jobs.  This is what I’ve done on almost all of my projects throughout my PC service.  “I’ll handle it; you just show up and do what you’re supposed to do…” I would tell my Mozambican counterparts. 

That’s not how I ran this last workshop, and that is why it was so rewarding.  José took on the bulk of the planning responsibilities.  I gave him the form and he wrote the grant, I mentioned a few important themes and he wrote the curriculum, and I gave him the money and he organized all of the meals.  On the day of the event there were a few last minute delays that you can count on in any Mozambican-run event, but all in all it was a huge success.  The students were able to learn from their peers and fellow Mozambicans throughout the sessions and José gained valuable experience in planning a workshop.  I learned that all it takes is a little bit of trust and detachment and you can stand back and see your local projects carried out.

After the training in September, there were two more events that consumed the bulk of my time over the last couple of months.  They were the annual Regional English Theater Competition which I organized and took place in Chimoio on September 22nd, and an end of the year field trip with the 12th graders to see famous pre-historic rock paintings in October.  I’m reaching my word limit here for this blog, however, and I want to devote a full post to these dramatic events, so I’m going to end here and pick up where I left off another day. 

Thanks for sticking with me, and I hope to see you all in a few short months.  I forgot to mention that after I COS on November 30th, I’m planning on going on a three-week trip with Hannah that will take us to India and Thailand before arriving back to the States on December 23rd.  Just one more thing to look forward to!  Until next time…

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